Unlike purely seasonal beach resorts, Rethymno town is a real year round city, so from November to March the Old Town stays alive with shops, cafes and tavernas serving locals and students from the University of Crete campus here. Year round restaurants such as Avli, Kapilio, Lemonokipos and Veneto keep cooking through winter, and you can expect cosy fireplaces and slow cooked dishes rather than the summer crowds. Core sights stay open with reduced winter hours, including the Fortezza, the Archaeological Museum and Arkadi Monastery, while many beach side businesses in resort villages like Plakias, Bali and Panormo close from late October to April. For winter visits, base yourself in Rethymno town or a larger village, check opening days before driving out, and expect the most authentic, least touristy version of the district.